Looking to a bygone era; the refined elegance of the fifties, the swinging sixties or the flash excess of the eighties, this current generation of talented lingerie designers take key elements and rework with a distinctly modern twist.
Fifi Chachnil’s love affair with the 1950’s style pin-up; saucy, fun and irreverent, is immediately made contemporary by her use of exquisite fabrics and construction techniques. To give certain pieces a degree of authenticity, however, she still uses the stalwart nylon a common lingerie fabric of the 1950’s. Yet it is her particular way of working with this material, the intricate hand sewn needlework and the superior cut which has elevated this label to the cult like status that it occupies today.
Whereas the 1950’ and early 1960’s s was about rigid fabrics, the shape wear for this generation, the late 60’s saw a much more relaxed aesthetic in line with women’s new emancipation. Twiggy the hottest model du jour radically shifted the emphasis away from the nipped in waist and refocused attention on to the leg. Breasts became sidelined much maligned for creating an obvious distraction from the main attraction. Unpadded bras, free from rigid under-wiring would no doubt be the lingerie of choice. We can imagine Cosabella’s Never Say Never Sweetie soft bra going down a storm, for it’s soft structure whilst remaining trustfully supportive.
At Fox & Rose we love Ell & Cee for her modern take on 1970’s boho luxe. We can imagine the Haute Hippie of this generation, Talitha Getty, wearing this delectable fuchsia kaftan around the souks of Marrakech. The heady decadence of the studio 54 era is also embodied in her sequined silk chiffon playsuit, the piece for a true disco diva.
The 1980’s and the rise of rampant consumerism and expense accounts saw women embrace the aesthetic of excess. Big hair, big shoulders in fact big everything. The big TV shows of the time, Dynasty and Dallas ,inspired women from round the world to recreate the looks of their onscreen idols where even nightgowns were made with the ubiquitous should pad. We can see a nod towards eighties revivalism with this seasons obsession with all things leopard print. Yet it’s the body con trend (at its worst worryingly reminiscent of Sinitta in her hey day, at its best deeply sexy and actually truly flattering) that has captured this generation of lingerie designers. Blurring the lines between outerwear and under Made By Niki have a truly fabulous creation with their Slinkies control mini-dress which perfectly captures the eighties spirit.